Drop Pod Progress

Just a couple of quick snaps of what I’ve got to hand.

You can see the extra bits of sprue glued into place and if you look carefully, should be able to make out the odd bulge that’s hiding a magnet underneath

And here is the central harness assembly, floor and top section. Pretty straightforward paint job in truth!

Release the Pods!

Ok, perhaps a slightly inappropriate title considering how hot it currently is in the UK ūüėČ ¬†The past week or so had seen me beginning to put together a Space Marine Drop Pod as it’s been far too hot to paint or do very much at all. ¬†If you’ve never put a drop pod together I’ll start off by saying that it’s not for the faint hearted. ¬†A drop pod has five ‘petal’ doors that due to the 6th edition “true line of sight” rules need to be constructed so that they will open. ¬†This means that you can no longer glue them shut to ensure they all line up and the interior is so highly detailed you’re forced to paint it all up in multiple sub assemblies. ¬†This added to the issue that you need to square everything up (in multiples of five), just makes the kit a complete mare, and I’ve seen many photos where the central console is glued together wonky or things glued together that are misaligned.

However I have persevered and it’s looking pretty good. ¬†One tip I discovered is when gluing the door sections together, you need to do a lot of “overgluing”. ¬†This is a technique that I use fairly frequently on plastic kits. ¬†The principal is simple, you apply more polystyrene cement than you need, and allow it to “overflow” or squidge out from the two pieces when you put them together. ¬†Once this has set fully (12+ hours) you can trim it off with a knife and scrape/file/sand it smooth. ¬†This really only works with flat surfaces as polystyrene cement melts the plastic together, so overgluing something that is detailed will result in that detail melting away. ¬†For the drop pod doors, I overglued all round the edge of the door and “hinge” and used five clothes pegs (the ones with the silicon grip) to secure everything in place overnight. ¬†It’s critical that the pieces are lined up perfectly else you’ll have a bugger of a job when it comes to getting everything flush. ¬†A bit of liquid green stuff sorted out any odd little gaps that appeared and smoothed everything together. ¬†End result is the doors look look like they’re a single solid piece rather than two pieces glued together.

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It’s Too Hot

The UK is pretty well known for it’s wet miserable summers and even wetter winters. ¬†The country can’t cope with any kind of extreme weather either, too much rain will cause flooding and a couple of inches of snow grinds everything to a halt.

We are currently in the grips of a mini heatwave which has been building for the last couple of weeks and is forecast to last for at least another month. ¬†The temperature is now pretty consistently climbing to around 30 degrees outside and well into the high-twenties inside. ¬†In short, it’s actually too hot to be in work or doing anything even remotely physical. ¬†Just walking somewhere will result in you covered in perspiration! ¬†Being out in the sun without sun cream will likely burn you pretty quickly and if not will cause you to shrivel up like a piece of jerky (ok, maybe not quite that drastic).

What is most infuriating is that it’s actually effecting me doing any painting, almost as soon as the paint hits the palette its starting to dry. ¬†I remembered that I had a wet palette upstairs and was using that from Wednesday last week but the temperature has risen sufficiently that even that isn’t preventing the paint from drying out… ¬†I did manage to get all of the pack markings and armour chipping effects finished before I gave it up as a bad job. ¬†What this has meant is that I’m actually over to putting together some scenery pieces for 40k, although I’m not looking forward to filling the gaps as the putty will cure ridiculously quickly. ¬†I might have to look round and see what other modelling projects I can do as I can’t see the weather cooling enough for a few days at best.

Space Wolf Special Character Conversions

I’ve been giving a lot of thought recently to sorting out the characters that I need for my Space Wolf army.¬† Space Wolves are unique in that they can have two character’s for each HQ slot in the Force Organisation Chart – meaning a normal game can have up to 4 characters rather than the usual two.¬† This adds quite a bit of flexibility when you’re playing 1,500 point or larger games.¬† Part and parcel of this is that every single character needs to be unique – specifically on a wargear/equipment/power front, but to my mind they also need to be unique on a modelling front.¬† Sadly there are very few “generic” miniatures available for the Space Wolves – there is one generic Rune Priest and one generic Wolf Priest (although I do have the Games Day special Wolf Priest).

Thankfully the Space Wolf sprues do contain numerous components that can be used, but in my mind it’s quite difficult to disguise the fact that your character has been built from standard pieces without extensive modification with putty and similar.¬† The thing is, if I’m going to be doing that amount of work regardless, it makes sense to really go to town on customising them and using a base miniature that isn’t normal.

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Games and Progress

Well although I didn’t manage to hit my target of getting a unit of Blood Claws painted (it was quite a difficult challenge if I’m honest), I did get in a really good game of Warhammer 40k 6th Edition on Sunday.¬† A bit of a learning curve (I lost) and still plenty of rules that I need to get to grips with, but overall it was an enjoyable introduction to this revision of the game.¬† My Wolves overall played out quite well, but 500 points is far too tight for them to be particularly effective as you can’t really field enough full squads or any vehicles.¬† That said I’m sure that some tweaking could result in a slightly more effective force.

I dug out my Realm of Battle Boards from the garage for playing on (just to make up a 4ft x 4ft area) and really quite impressed with how nice they look, even in bare, unpainted plastic.¬† The clips to join them together are actually awful so an alternate method of clipping them together is going to have to be found (magnets?).¬† I also need to construct something that will allow me to use all 6 battle boards as my table isn’t quite big enough as it stands.The other annoyance is that unpainted the sides of the hills are quite steep so models slid down quite easily ūüôā¬† Some textured paint will solve this though.

After playing on them, I’m now starting to work out what I fancy doing with the boards, snowy tundra or ash wastelands is currently my thoughts as things like static grass run the risk of being rubbed when they’re packed away.¬† One thing that is certain is that I need a lot more bits of scenery – craters, barriers, debris etc.¬† The more pressing task though is to paint up a working 1000 point Space Wolf army.

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