Well this weekend I made a really good amount of progress. The Kheres Assault Cannon has been glued together and with the exception of a little filling and gluing the gun onto the shoulder, is now finished. The claw arm now has an appropriate genestealer head and I’m trying to bid on a Space Hulk miniature on eBay so that I can use the genestealer spine that that piece has. I need to get round to gluing all of those items together and then drilling holes and pins into the torso and shoulders as I intend to paint the arms separately to the main body. In fact I intend to have a total of six sub-assemblies to paint – Base; Body; Left Arm; Right Arm; Head; Cloak. Once the body and the back of the cloak has been painted, I’ll glue them together, sculpt the last bit of fur onto the cloak clasps and then paint the fur of the cloak.
I’ve done a little bit of research in preparation for painting the Dreadnought as I like to spend a good chunk of time working out what I’m painting and how. The first decision to make is what colours to paint the dreadnought. In principal he’ll be the stereotypical blue grey colour that is universally recognised as being a Space Wolf although unlike the Games Workshop Space Wolves it will be more grey than blue as a nod towards the grey pre-heresy colour scheme. If only the other decisions were as simple as that!
I need to somehow inject a bright colour or two onto the whole piece else it’s going to be a largely bland, grey blob from a distance. My initial thought is that I should paint the shoulder and knee pads in the same way that a regular Space Wolf would be painted. There are a couple of problems with doing this. Firstly, Space Wolf dreads don’t wear pack markings (all the studio painted ones are the same colour all over) and secondly they would technically wear the “The Wolf That Stalks Between Stars” logo – which has a black background and a large expanse of black really isn’t going to look very good.
My 100th blog entry! *queue a fanfair and confetti*
Well as expected the new arms for my Contemptor arrived last week. For reference, the Contemptor Claw arm actually comes with a normal set of “fingers”, but a different ranged weapon – a Graviton Gun and Plasma Blaster (which the rules are only in Imperial Armour 2 and not the PDF on the Forgeworld Website). Because I had already cleaned the bits for the normal power fist, I was able to get away with just substituting the weapon and fingers. The Kheres Assault Cannon however was a little more troublesome…
I’ve finally relented and just ordered myself a new set of arms for my Contemptor – a Kheres Assault Cannon and Close Combat Claw. As I mentioned in a previous post, I wasn’t very impressed with the range of movement that was available from the Heavy Bolter arm and after spotting one of the heavy assault cannon arms on eBay the other day was more convinced that this arm would allow me to add some more dynamic movement into the miniature. Also, upon reading various bits of fluff, the ammunition used in an assault cannon is not the same as used in a bolter and is, in fact, a cased round – which means an excuse to cover the base in spent cases 🙂 In fact I might even be a bit clever and actually make the rounds from tube rather than solid rod and block up one end with putty to represent a real hollow case. These would likely need to be painted separately and glued onto the base on top of any snow effect, with PVA glue and then a bit of zenithal (i.e. top) highlighting applied.
I do think the Power Fist Arm I’ve got is brilliant, however upon reading the Space Wolf fluff regarding this pattern of Dreadnought, the idea of a clawed fist covered in blood/ichor seems much more “in keeping” with the background. It also means that I’ve “spares” should I mess up adding any pelts and trinkets or if I don’t mess up, I’ve bits that can be resold on eBay (for pretty much the same price I paid). The other benefit is that I can actually put the arms on the way round I wanted (gun on the right) which gives me more scope to play.
Where have the last 3 weeks gone to? It seems completely unreal that I’m sat here, typing this and it’s the middle of June – especially considering the awful weather the UK has (and still is) having. With the exception of ten days or so of lovely weather at the beginning of May, it’s been wet, cold and miserable, not typical summer weather, even for Britain! Sadly it’s not conducive to painting or modelling as all you really want to do is to hole yourself up indoors in the warm and wait until it all improves. It doesn’t help that the cough I’ve had for the past two months has freshened up again as I’ve got a bit of a cold (the bi-product of sleeping in a tent a couple of weekends ago).
Well as predicted my Contemptor Dreadnought arrived in the post and what a lovely miniature it is. A few odd bits that have needed filling, but my usual 50/50 mix of Green Stuff and Superfine Milliput sorted those out. The miniature comes as individual components, allowing each item to be angled just as you want it – sadly this means you end up trying to manipulate 8+ pieces with blu-tack holding them together, often resulting in a spectacular show of “spaz hands” and bits going everywhere.
Couple of tips I would say on working out the positioning of this, which is critical to end result looking realistic (it’s a humanoid shaped robot after all). Firstly, create the basic base first so you know where you want it, unless you’re going for a completely flat base (how boring). Secondly, mock everything up with blu-tack before you even think about gluing anything. Also tidy everything up and wash with warm soapy water before you glue. Finally, use super glue for the knee joints but an epoxy glue for the rest. I think it goes without saying that you should also wash the miniature again before you prime it.
Well the Stormlord is very nearly finished, only a bit of drybrushing and painting of the shrine beside the engine pipes left to do and then I’ll call it a day. I’m not going to pretend that this is 100% perfect – or even 80% and I could happily tinker away at this for the next six months and still not be completely happy with it. However there comes a point where you just have to draw a line underneath a project and move onto the next with a lot of new found knowledge. Once I’ve got these last couple of bits done, I’ll post up the completed paint job and a long list of “things learned”.
After a bit of random searching on the eBay, I picked up a Tau Devilfish cheaper than shop price (around £16). My idea is that I’ll give it a decent colour scheme and apply weathering as per the Forge World masterclass book. If I’m happy with it then I might even buy a different FW weapon turret for it. I’ve not yet decided on a decent colours scheme, but possibly a pale blue/purple one, almost cloud like. However light purple can have a habit of looking like pink, so a bit of experimentation is required.
IN MY musings of a potential idea for GD2012 and a 40k vehicle, I’m going to go over lots of different ideas and although the new Necron codex isn’t yet out have had a bit of a mooch and found a few Jes Goodwin concept pieces for Necron Vehicles.
Now all of the above look really characteristic of Necron’s and in principal would be straight forward to create due to their angular construction. The Warmachine would be the most complex as it has “horseshoe” shaped pieces around the giant gun and would likely require a small run of resin casts to create. Depending upon the version, one of the War Alters could also be quire difficult as it has some quite curved bits – the difficult bit being the fact you need a identical mirror’d pair, but a pair of plasti-card pieces which you fill with a green/milliput type putty would actually work quite well for this.
One thing that would be worth doing is to design and create a full set of brass etchings to use (link on places). This would allow for the various Necron symbols to be displayed all over the actual model and extra details too. Due to the way brass etching works, you could get a huge number of pieces out of an A5 or A4 sheet which would add a really nice level of professionalism to the overall effect of the piece, plus it’s pretty easy to knock out in Adobe Illustrator. I would need to make some very detailed plans of what I were to do, before I actually do it, which would allow me to ensure that all the pieces fit together happily – however it may be sensible to knock this out in a CAD package, which in itself might take more time than I want…
Despite my best efforts (and one evening staying up late on caffeine energy drinks), I didn’t manage to finish off the entry I was doing for Golden Demon 2011. About 6pm on Saturday (the day before the event) I spotted a mold line on one of the legs which only appeared with a certain light direction and after the application of a light colour and just admitted defeat. This does mean that I can now take my time and finish off this model without the pressure of having to rush bits. I need to look into the best way to strip the paint off the legs as I’m not happy with how they have gone.
Games Day 2011 was pretty good although as with all things there are things that could be improved on. This year all of the “sales” element was collected together at one end of the NEC and access to this was restricted to perhaps a 50 or 60 people at a time. This was really good as you were able to get round and buy stuff very effectively, however I personally felt quite rushed as I knew there was other people there waiting to come in. My biggest complaint is that the queue for being allowed up to the area had no definition and you really didn’t know where you were meant to queue and where not. I’m sure that next year they’ll address this. Unlike some years there seemed to be enough things to view so that at no point did my brother or I feel like we were wandering round aimlessly.